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Archive for the ‘Wine Trends’ Category

The wine world is one that embraces the esoteric and often shuns the everyday or, god forbid, the ubiquitous. So it’s no surprise that many of the industry’s most formidable palates have shunned unconventional wine packaging from screw tops to tetra paks. Uh-oh, I’m starting to sound like them. I lost you at tetra paks, didn’t I?

If you’ve been near a wine shop in the last ten years you’ve seen screw tops — and with good reason. They’re better than cork at protecting wine from the elements and they eliminate the possibility of opening that prized bottle only to be met with the dank, mildewy smell and musty taste of corked wine (sometimes called cork taint or cork rot).

Wine is a fickle creature and to make wine means to take chances — the slightest adjustment in soil or climate can affect wine from one year to the next in profound ways. With all the chances wine-makers take, screw tops are one step in the process where they can breathe easy; a particular vintage sealed with screw tops will be more consistent from bottle to bottle.

Now let’s talk about tetra paks and wine packaged in boxes. Once respected wine makers started to do away with the cork, the bottle came under scrutiny, too. It’s not surprising — glass bottles aren’t very efficiently recycled and require a lot more energy for production. Not to mention they’re not good for storing wine once they’ve been opened.

Taking these factors into consideration, a ton of French wine-makers have opted to package their wine in tetra paks, a cardboard carton-like container that’s easily recyclable, great for travel, and cheaper. A tetra pak will also store wine better than a bottle after it’s been opened. True, you’re not going to store your boxed wine in the wine cellar and age it for a decade, but for wines you open quickly it’s hard to argue against the tetra pak.

The French are really at the forefront of organic farming in general, and especially in organic wine production. The tetra pak takes that eco-friendly ethos one step further. It looks like an oversized juice-box and is usually used for wines sold in 500 ml or 1-liter volumes as opposed to the 3-Liter bag-in-box approach. Value is also important and plays a role in the decision to package wine in a tetra pak or bag-in-box — packaging costs are reduced by 80% compared to similar costs for traditional bottles and winemakers are able to pass those savings along.

Ready to be impressed by boxed wine? Here are some of my favorite wines that comes in alternative packaging:

Black Box Pinot Grigio ($21.99 for 3-liter box)
This white wine is just what a summer afternoon calls for.  The pinot grigio is a light white with bright acidic fruits and a nice sweetness.

Bandit Cabernet Sauvignon ($7.99 for 1-liter tetra pak)
With packaging that evokes a giant juice box, it might be hard to resist sticking a straw in the top and slurping up this ripe fruity wine instead of pouring it into a glass. These wines are made under the producer of Three Thieves wines, which falls under the direction of famed Napa winemaker Joel Gott.

Y+B Wines Torrontes ($12 for 1-liter tetra pak)
Torrentes is a white-wine grape that has flourished in Argentina. It’s a nice round wine with a fruity apricot nose, fresh notes of pears and peaches, and a refreshingly minerally finish. Y+B wines are all organic, so in addition to tasting good, you can feel a little better about drinking them.

Le Petite Frog Picpoul de Pinet ($25 for 3-liter box)
Although the French are at the forefront of organic wine, it’s much harder to get your hands on it all the way out here in California so we were especially excited to find this wine. Picpoul de Pinet is the varietal, a lesser known French white grape that’s gaining popularity with its full body, notes of grass and lemon, and a high acidity that makes it great for pairing with food.

French Rabbit Merlot ($7 for 1-liter tetra pak)
Another organic wine maker, French Rabbit sources all of its grapes from sustainable farms in the Languedoc region of France. This region is known for its hearty, robust, and rustic wines and the Merlot is a great example of this. Nice spice, ripe cherry notes, and a soft finish make this wine particularly good with BBQ.

Badger Mountain Pure Red, Meritage ($24 for 3-liter box)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sirah, and Merlot grown in Washington’s Columbia Valley, this wine is not only organic but a great deal. This is a rich jammy wine with hints of spice and a long rich finish.

Bota Box Malbec ($16 for 3-liter box)
Malbec is a bigger red wine that’s dryer and more tightly structured than a Cabernet or a Merlot. It’s a wine that can get aggressive and is often used as a blending grape in French wines but can stand on its own in certain wine-making regions. This particular Malbec is softer with ripe fruit and hints of roasted coffee.

CalNaturale Chardonnay ($14 for 1 liter tetra pak)
A lightly toasted oak gives this chardonnay a full mouth-feel. It’s a rich and nutty chard that doesn’t have the tropical fruit flavors that come in a lot of other California versions. This particular wine has a much more French flavor profile of hazelnuts and vanilla.

* Also of note is the website for Octavin Home Wine Bar, which packages wine from small and “artisan” producers in tetra paks.

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One sip of Chardonnay and my mind’s eye invariably conjures an image of the tragically coiffed and shoulder pad-wearing career women who inhabit my favorite romantic comedies from the 1980s. If one were to solely look to popular romantic comedies of the era as a cultural reference point (which, obviously, I don’t) it would be easy to conclude that these women worked their asses off and struggled against the patriarchal power structure of corporate America just so they could sit down to a nice cold glass of Chardonnay at the end of the day.

I’m sure the working women of the decade curled up with a big glass of Cabernet Sauvignon often enough, too, but the 1980s was the decade of Chardonnay. It was the first major varietal grown on American soil to yield an internationally recognized wine and established Napa Valley as a “serious” wine region after the famous “Judgement of Paris” in 1976. The “Judgement” — which you can see depicted in the 2008 film Bottleshock — used blind tasting and eleven extremely discerning judges to measure California wines against French ones. California rocked it.

Perhaps for all those career women who fought to crash through glass ceilings and garner respect in the workplace, drinking a wine that had broken so many staid conventions in the viticulture world was all too appropriate.

Napa has been producing wine since the early 19th century, but until that tasting in 1976, it seemed as though Americans just couldn’t break into the wine world. No one would take a California bottle seriously — they wanted old vines and French labels. But as soon as Chateau Montelena’s Chardonnay bested the best of Burgundy, west coast winemakers made a mad dash to grow their own chard vines and take advantage of a rapidly growing market. In an era of unabashed patriotism, national strife, and culture shock, Americans were eager and proud to embrace the wine that put them on par with the greatest vineyards of France.

Perhaps for all those career women who fought to crash through glass ceilings and garner respect in the workplace, drinking a wine that had broken so many staid conventions in the viticulture world was all too appropriate. It’s easy to forget, when considering Chardonnay, that “the California style” is a relatively modern invention.

The California wineries that pioneered the style were, at first, producing strictly classic renditions of the Chardonnays produced in Burgundy. These French Chardonnays can range from the dry, crisp, and minerally versions made in Chablis to the rich, nutty wines of the Cote d’Or. Eventually California winemakers got bolder and crafted bigger and bigger wines that were intensely buttery, redolent of oak, and often laced with tropical flavors.

California-style Chardonnays often sacrifice food-friendliness for size and so, while they’re great to drink on their own, they can coat the tongue and leave diners groping in a fog of oak for any other flavors. Many winemakers are starting to turn away from this massive style and opting to craft more food-friendly Chardonnays that retain the flavor profile of the classic California style but have a lighter mouth feel and higher acid content.

This particular difference boils down to a simple process called Malolactic fermentation that’s usually used to change the naturally occurring tart-flavored malic acid (think green apples, nectarines, and pears) into softer-tasting lactic acid that gives a rounder mouth feel.

Chardonnay is one of the most malleable wines — it can be manipulated through a vast variety of other factors that can all be gone into with great detail (but you’re spared this time around). For the time being, lets focus on a solid example of a few different popular styles so that whatever you’re going through — a fit of Francophilia, a rash of ’80s nostalgia, or a surge of American pride — you’ll know exactly what kind of wine to pair with your mood.

Try These:

Classic California-style (oaky, buttery, and big): Robert Mondavi Solaire (California), 2006, $14

Tropical and Fruity: Jekel Chardonnay (California), 2007, $11

Chablis (dry, crisp, and fruity): Chateau de la Greffiere (France), 2008,  $17

Cote d’Or: Verget Bourgogne Blanc (France), 2006, $19

Unoaked: Plantagenet Omrah (W. Australia), 2008, $16

Nouveau California (minerally, acidic, green fruits): Joel Gott Chardonnay (California), 2008, $15

Well-rounded and easy to drink: Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard (Washington), 2007, $17

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